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Thread: Excited about shoot, less than week away

  1. #11
    Inactive Member MovieStuff's Avatar
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    Actually, colorists really prefer a color bar chart, which also includes a small grey scale at the bottom. The grey scale is helpful, but the color bar chart really helps give the colorist the information they need to balance the picture, or at least get them in the ball park of what you want.

    Roger

  2. #12
    HB Forum Moderator Alex's Avatar
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    If you do use a combo gray/scale color chart....the size relationship of the the gray/scale to the color/scale to the relative size of the scene you temporarily place it in is more critical in Super-8 than in 16mm or 35mm.

    If you had to choose the ideal "color/gray chart" for shooting Super-8....what percentage of the chart should be devoted to color, and what percentage to gray scale, and most importantly, what size should the actual chart be...???

    I believe that an oversized card may serve your purposes best (if you can find one)....perhaps a "fold-out" ring binder type of card, gray scale on one half, the color scale on the the other half.

    The difficulty in using a color or gray scale correctly is if you zoom in before the shot to get more of the chart in the shot, you've blown part of the test...it's still better than not having the chart...but....

    A Lens reproduces different contrast values at different zoom lengths...

    Which ever chart you use should basically go where your actors faces are in the frame...unless some other aspect of the frame is deemed more "important", and should in fact be the exact same framing you will use in the shot!

    So the smaller the chart appears in the frame size, the less information it will deliver.

    If you can only bring a "smallish" chart for your purposes, and you could choose the gray scale sizing versus the color sizing....

    I'm not sure which I would prefer, both have their advantages.

    A colorist may prefer a gray scale card because they are the ones who will "color" the movie for optimal look, so they may prefer the gray scale to make sure they have know the contrast and density value of the scene.

    A producer or director may care more about the color looking exactly the way they saw it on set, so the color chart makes more sense to them.

    Since I don't have a signed declaration from colorists I have talked to, I'd better not tell you what their "opinion" was on the issue....afterall, it wouldn't be proveable in Rogers court of law.

    -Alex







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  3. #13
    Inactive Member jocko's Avatar
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    Get a Kodak GREY CARD PLUS..you can order one from Kodak...

    Neil
    JOCKO FILMS

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  4. #14
    Inactive Member Matt Pacini's Avatar
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    I've always shot using the gray card, but hey, I think the color/gray chart is a better idea.
    Roger, where do I get one?
    Matt

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  5. #15
    Inactive Member jocko's Avatar
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    I was told by the colorists that I use and by Kodak to use the Grey card plus..that's what the colorist uses with Kodaks TAF..so that's what I have used...(oh no, this is a super-8 board..sorry...use a color/grey chart
    of course TAF won't work with super-8 reversal stocks)...where am I again
    Neil
    JOCKO FILMS

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    [This message has been edited by jocko (edited August 19, 2001).]

  6. #16
    Inactive Member MovieStuff's Avatar
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    Guys, it's really simple. Colorists do what you tell them to do. If you want them to reference a color bar chart you've shot on location that's identical to the color bars they use with their vector scope and wave form monitor, then that's what they'll do because you're the client. Just like if you hire a DP that normally shoots with an Arri and you tell him he has to shoot with a Scoopic or a Super 8 camera, that's what he'll do because you're the client. Furthermore, a grey scale only allows for density and black level calibrations. It won't tell the colorist squat about where "center" is for the color. What's the mystery, here? Get a color bar chart, hold in front of the camera and roll off a few feet at correct exposure. That's all there is to it. DPs do it all the time in that "other" format. Whether you're going to be supervising the session or not, the chart is only a calibration tool, not an asthetic tool. They set their initial levels based on the chart and then "season to taste", as my wife would say. (she's a good cook)

    Roger

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    Roger Evans
    MovieStuff http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff.html

    [This message has been edited by MovieStuff (edited August 19, 2001).]

  7. #17
    HB Forum Moderator Alex's Avatar
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    although, a glass mounted color bars chart would be superior to a cardboard one, because it would allow for both front and back light to hit the color chart.

    Sure a color chart is way better than nothing...but basically, it only basing it's readings on front light.

    -Alex

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  8. #18
    Inactive Member MovieStuff's Avatar
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    Matt-

    I've had my chip chart for quite a while, but I believe they are available at Vidicomp, USA.

    See:
    http://www.vidicomp.com/

    It's not listed on line, but that's only because they have too much stuff. There is a link that has a free catalog and you should find one in there. You're looking for a color bar chart that is used to calibrate video cameras on the bench. DPs use these same charts in the field when shooting film as a reference for the colorist in the Rank room.
    Use your grey card to help formulate exposure. Then once you've done that, shoot footage of the chip chart at that exposure. That gives the colorist correct information about saturation as well, since saturation is affected by exposure. Also, it helps if you give the colorist specific notes, such as the fact that you shot tungsten film in daylight or that you want a particular scene underexposed on purpose. That way, the colorist won't try and "fix" something that isn't really defective in your shot.

    By the way, these charts are not cheap as they are printed with very high tolerances for color rendention. However, because they have to be replaced by bench technicians often (the colors change slightly over time), you can sometimes find broadcast repair places that will give you an old one or sell you an old one very cheap.

    The color will be off a little, but since it is just used as a starting point for DP use, it will be close enough. You could put a used one and a new one side by side and couldn't tell the difference by eye. A bench technician using a scope could, but K40 wouldn't care!

    Roger

    Roger

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    Roger Evans
    MovieStuff
    http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff/html

  9. #19
    Inactive Member Scott Nocella's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys.....I really enjoy seeing solutions reveal themselves....that's positive feeling in action.

    peace and light,

    Scott
    World Harmony Unlimited

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